A journey through Scotland

In Episode 2 of our Outer Hebridean adventure, John Harbour continues a family journey through some of Scotland’s most spectacular island landscapes — a trip in which changing weather, cancelled ferries and unexpected mishaps prove that the best travel stories rarely follow the original itinerary.
After the cancellation of the Oban–Barra ferry forced an unexpected detour to Skye, the family wakes at the Uig Hotel following a wild night with Storm Dave, a power cut and even an overnight fall of snow. Easter Sunday begins rather more cheerfully with Nicholas and Lucas hunting for chocolate eggs in the snow-covered hotel grounds. But just as the journey appears to be getting back on track, another problem emerges: a puncture on the van — followed by the discovery that the spare tyre is punctured too. What begins as a breakdown soon becomes an adventure in its own right, particularly for the boys, when the family and their vehicle are transported to Portree for repairs.
With the van finally back on the road, there is still time to explore the extraordinary Trotternish Peninsula. The journey takes in the Fairy Glen, the Old Man of Storr, Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls, the dinosaur heritage of Staffin and the remarkable geological landscape of the Quiraing. Along the way, John explores not only Skye’s dramatic scenery but also the human history of the island, including the traditional crofting world preserved at the Skye Museum of Island Life and the story of Flora MacDonald.
At last, the family returns to Uig and boards the ferry for Barra — their second attempt to reach the Outer Hebrides. Arrival in Castlebay brings the welcome sight of Kisimul Castle, the ancient island stronghold of the MacNeils, and finally a comfortable night at the Castlebay Hotel.
The following morning the journey north begins in earnest. A short ferry crossing takes the family to beautiful Eriskay, with its famous native ponies, white sands and associations with Bonnie Prince Charlie, who landed there in 1745 at the beginning of the Jacobite Rising. From Eriskay they cross the causeway into South Uist, travelling through the great open landscape of machair, lochs and scattered crofts. Along the route are reminders of the islands’ powerful religious and cultural identity, including the ‘Brutalist’ designed church, Our Lady of Sorrows, then the birthplace of Flora MacDonald at Kildonan and Hew Lorimer’s imposing statue of Our Lady of the Isles.

Continuing through North Uist, the journey passes through a quieter landscape of peatland, lochs and ancient history, including the Neolithic chambered cairn at Barpa Langass, before reaching Berneray and another memorable ferry crossing to Leverburgh on Harris.
Harris provides yet another dramatic change of scenery. The family visits historic St Clement’s Church at Rodel before travelling along the spectacular west coast to the white sands and turquoise waters of Luskentyre. There are kites, children, Atlantic winds — and one runaway kite that disappears forever across the bay. A chance meeting on the beach then leads to a visit with renowned Harris Tweed weaver Donald John Mackay, who welcomes the family into his weaving shed and shows the boys the traditional skills behind one of Scotland’s most internationally recognised fabrics.
The episode ends as the journey reaches Tarbert, the gateway between Harris and Lewis. After storms, snow, cancelled ferries, punctures, breakdown trucks, ancient castles, Jacobite history, extraordinary beaches and countless miles of island roads, the family has finally caught up with its original itinerary.
But the adventure is far from over. In Outer Hebrides Episode 3, the journey continues north through Harris and into Lewis, beginning with Tarbert, Harris Tweed and the Isle of Harris Distillery.